Dulverton in Somerset

Our third stay at our favourite site, Exmoor House Caravan and Motorhome Club Site in Dulverton, didn’t disappoint. We’re extremely jealous of those who are fortunate enough to call Dulverton home!

April 2025 | 10 minutes read time

Two boring motorways

The worst bit about visiting this site is the journey. Towing a caravan and allowing for a lunch stop, the route takes around five hours on two very boring motorways – the M4 and M5. This time it actually took six hours on the way back due to traffic and took even longer the time before due to traffic and 360 degree torrential rain.

Personally I love it once I reach the M5. I feel like we’re nearly there (we’re not) and as I’m usually driving at that point I can enjoy listening to something fun (often The Infinite Monkey Cage). This time I managed not to get confused at the junction onto the M5 and accidentally go North!

Once on the M5 you get tantalising glimpses of the sea in the form of the Bristol Channel. A bit further on you can just make out the end of Cheddar Gorge – another favourite place to go. You then start to get signs to familiar west-country places – Taunton, Tiverton, Minehead and finally Dulverton.

Dulverton

Dulverton is a small, picturesque market town on the southern edge of Exmoor National Park, just inside Somerset. It’s situated in a steep, wooded valley containing the River Barle and is ideally located for exploring Exmoor.

We’ve shopped and/or eaten in many places in Dulverton – but there are still many we haven’t made it to yet!

• Seven Fables – a creative haven of arts and crafts, books and art materials (I buy a book every time I visit – a must for people who love nature, art and reading!)
• The Tantivy – gifts, tableware, food, deli and cafe (we always buy ice creams and Exmoor Cider)
• Browns of Dulverton – varied gifts and garden ornaments (we bought a lovely outdoor clock which we still need to put up!)
• Oggie’s Music – great selection of new and second-hand instruments, sheet music and books (we went to buy a tambourine and ended up with a ukulele, djemebe drum, tambourine, maracas and a triangle!)
• Exmoor Deli – pies, pasties, cheeses, cakes and store cupboard goodies (we tried the minted lamb pasty, steak and stilton pie and cauliflower, broccoli and cheese pie)
• Dulverton Pharmacy – well-stocked with all the usual essentials (look out for the old equipment and medicine bottles on the top shelves)
• Dulverton Co-op – surprisingly wide array of supermarket goods and it’s open until late every day (Harrison’s favourite shop)
• Exmoor Fish & Chips – excellent fish and chip takeaway and now has a restaurant as well (they even do saveloys)
• The Bridge Inn – Riverside pub serving hearty food with a good selection of beer and cider on tap (big portions – especially the starters)
• Dulverton Farmers Market – last Saturday of the month (April to September) for locally produced goods
• Masons Kings – a shop for farmers (as opposed to a farm shop!) which is just outside Dulverton and is handy for caravan and camping supplies

Exmoor walks

Exmoor is my favourite national park. It was founded in 1954 and was Europe’s first International Dark Skies Reserve. It’s known for its red deer but I love the Exmoor ponies which have roamed the park for hundreds of years.

My number one activity on Exmoor is walking! The good news is that there are many places where you will have the surrounding countryside to yourself. These are a few of the places I’ve explored.

Around Dulverton

A decent circular walk for those who don’t mind hills! Walk up past the church and continue uphill to Court Down and the trig point. Then turn to walk down to Marsh Bridge and Burridge Woods.

For those who prefer it flat, go for a nice there and back stroll along Chapel Lane and follow the footpath to the salmon steps.

Tarr Steps

This ancient clapper bridge spans the Rive Barle. It’s been rebuilt multiple times as the stones are often washed away during storms – they’re now all numbered so they are always put back in the right place!

There’s a shaded walk along the river – good for very hot or rainy days. We’ve not tried Tarr Farm Inn yet but it has good reviews so we’ll try it next time.

Wimbleball Lake

This huge reservoir was constructed in the 1970s. The dam has a distinctly soviet-era vibe – it’s easy to imagine you’re in a 1970s Bond movie and that villainous guards are watching you from the concrete tower in the middle! The impressive stepped spillway is mesmerising to watch when water is cascading down it. You can do water sports on the lake and there are many walking trails around it.

For stunning views over the lake and surrounding countryside, start at Haddon Hill car park. You can walk westwards onto moorland for views or make your way down to the dam, coming back up through moorland. When we tried this, the path we were meant to be following had become overgrown – or we were on the wrong path (more likely). We had to pick our way carefully, bare-legged, on a skinny path through heather which was swarming with bees. Fortunately we managed to avoid getting stung – perhaps south-western bees are as laid-back as the people!

An easier walk is to start at the visitor’s centre with a reasonably level there and back walk to the dam. We finished it off with a coffee at Coffee Couture @ Wimbleball, next to the car park.

Withypool and Landacre

There are several routes to choose from around Withypool and Landacre Bridge (pronounced Lannacker). The one I chose was rather more muddy than I was expecting when I walked it in August and I ended up wading through shin deep muddy water! People were swimming and riding on inflatables under Landacre Bridge whilst the rain came sweeping in across the moorland. Expect anything weather-wise when on Exmoor!

Nearby towns

South Molton

The other southern gateway to Exmoor is a place I’m beginning to think of as my second home. My youngest sister Vicki moved to this friendly market town in 2023. I’ve been a frequent visitor ever since and it’s only half an hour by car from Dulverton.

South Molton is a small market town, with a thriving high street and community. My favourite shops are The Cheese Larder (local cheeses and deli products) and Mint Vintage (vintage and handmade clothes and gifts).

Tiverton

The journey from Dulverton to Tiverton takes in the stunning scenery of the Exe Valley. This includes what we now call the vertical forest – a forest of trees growing up hillsides so impossibly steep that they don’t look real.

This market town has all the usual chain stores – we enjoyed a wander round and Harrison got to buy a Batman collectable figure. Unfortunately we turned up on the only day without the market running but I gather that it’s a great place to shop!

Just outside Tiverton is Knightshayes Court – a Victorian country house designed by managed by the National Trust. The interior contains lots of quirky and interesting features, whilst outside there are formal and beautiful, naturally landscaped gardens to explore.

Further afield

Lynmouth

Some of the routes to this lovely seaside town in North Devon are not for the faint hearted! Travelling along the coast involves navigating Porlock Hill and reputedly the steepest A road in the UK (1 in 4 gradient). Some vehicles (including caravans) are advised to take the alternative toll road!

Aside from the picturesquely jumbled collection of old buildings, pubs, restaurants, takeaways and shops, the town boasts the Lynton-Lynmouth Cliff Railway. It was founded in 1890 and is the world’s highest and steepest, totally water-powered funicular railway. It’s mesmerising to watch this engineering masterpiece and good fun to ride.

On a previous visit, we rode up to Lynton to explore. We had a quick wander round, stopped for an ice cream and visited the world’s most overpriced charity shop (£5 for a second hand cheese grater!). We then wandered back down the cliff path – with great views of the coast and railway.

This time we stayed by the beach and opted for a roast dinner at The Bath Hotel. The portions seemed to have been down-sized slightly but it was delicious and just the thing to warm up as the wind was decidedly chilly. The adjoining pub, The Ancient Mariner, is a great place to eat, drink and admire nautical-themed exhibits.

Dunster

Dunster is a picturesque medieval village in Somerset, on the Northern edge of Exmoor. With it’s cobblestone streets, thatched cottages and centuries-old buildings it’s a beautiful, if touristy, place to explore.

We stopped for a cream tea at Tessa’s Tea Shop, in their lovely little courtyard garden. Spencer was asked if we wanted two cream teas – he said yes and was given four enormous scones with two giant bowls of jam and cream. The best cream teas we’ve ever had!

Dunster Castle is a prominent landmark overlooking the village and is managed by the National Trust. Apparently the surrounding countryside inspired the hymn All Things Bright and Beautiful and the view as you walk around the gardens is certainly full of greenery. A quirky feature of the castle is the eerie Victorian reservoir, contained under the keep garden lawn and which provided water to Minehead.

Our ratings