Éperlecques in Nord-Pas-de-Calais, France
After what felt like an unnecessarily eventful start, our first stop on this year’s European adventure turned out to be the perfect place to unwind.
June 2026 | 7 minutes read time
The journey
We had an easy drive to the Le Shuttle terminal in Folkestone and self check-in was quick enough, but things soon ground to a halt. A lack of dedicated caravan parking, compounded by severe delays and terrible parking management, meant we were unable to even enter the car park. We sat outside while motorhomes and campervans ignored the attendants and drove past us, parking wherever there happened to be space.
I decided to try and sort things out! I spotted an empty bay and persuaded a lovely campervan driver to park behind another vehicle in the next bay so we could park, while I stood in the bay to stop anyone else parking there! So far, so good – we were finally able to park and wait… and wait in the baking heat.
After a couple of hours were sent through security and passport control for yet more waiting, with no idea when we would be going as the times on the boards bore no resemblance to the time we were actually living in. After a delay of over three hours, we were eventually loaded onto the train and heading beneath the Channel.
Bearing in mind Le Shuttle is supposed to be quick, easy and convenient, I’m not sure we will be using it again. It’s more expensive than the ferry and we seem to be delayed every time we use it!
Eventually we arrived in France, where a short drive brought us to Camping Château du Gandspette, just outside the town of Éperlecques in Nord-Pas-de-Calais. The site is set within the grounds of a beautiful 18th-century château and is ideally located for anyone wanting a peaceful first or last stop when travelling through Calais.
Reception was warm and friendly, with plenty of useful information – “the little pool is warm… the big pool is getting there!” Our spacious, shaded pitch would prove to be a blessing, as northern France was entering what would become a record-breaking European heatwave. The Nord-Pas-de-Calais region was already under an amber weather alert, which would soon become red as temperatures climbed well above 30°C.
Setting up… just in time
We decided to leave putting the awning up until the following morning. This proved to be a sensible idea, as the heavens opened with a spectacular thunderstorm and torrential rain.
Once the weather settled we made the essential supermarket run. Bread, cheese, tomatoes, wine and beer all found their way into the trolley – the traditional first-day shopping list for any trip to France.
The following morning started pleasantly with cool, dew-covered grass, but by lunchtime the heat had become intense. Delaying the awning adjustments until midday turned out to be a poor decision. After working in full sun I was absolutely exhausted and headed straight for the swimming pool.
There are two pools on site – the large one was wonderfully refreshing, and despite the soaring temperatures it was almost empty. Afterwards, lunch consisted of nothing more complicated than fresh baguette, cheese and tomatoes, enjoyed in the welcome shade while reading a book. Sometimes simple really is best.
French Hypermarkets never disappoint
A trip to the enormous Auchan hypermarket in nearby Saint-Omer brought back memories of the old “booze cruise” days. These vast French supermarkets are an experience in themselves, with everything from fresh seafood counters to entire aisles dedicated to cheese and wine.
Dinner that evening featured fresh fish, beef brochettes, salad and some delicious locally baked biscuits for dessert. We sat outside beneath the awning until almost midnight watching an incredible tropical-style lightning storm illuminate the sky all around us.
La Coupole – a fascinating piece of history
One of the highlights of our stay was visiting La Coupole, one of northern France’s most significant Second World War sites.
Originally built by Nazi Germany as a secret underground launch base for V2 rockets, the enormous concrete dome was intended to bombard London and southern England. Constant Allied bombing prevented it from ever becoming operational, but the scale of the engineering is astonishing and the human cost of its construction is sobering.
Today it houses an excellent museum explaining both the development of the V1 and V2 weapons and the occupation of northern France. There is also a planetarium, creating an interesting contrast between the destructive rocket technology of wartime and space exploration.
The exhibitions are thoughtful, moving and incredibly well presented. It’s easy to spend several hours here. The tunnels are very cold (something we were grateful for on this occasion) so remember to bring something warm to wear!
Back on site that evening, the campsite was wonderfully peaceful. “I can only hear birds, fans and tinnitus.” Spencer observed.
Exploring Saint-Omer
Our visit to Saint-Omer happened to coincide with one of the quieter days of the week, with many shops closed. Fortunately, we found La Fringalette, a busy restaurant full of locals – always a promising sign.
It was far too hot for our usual moules-frites, so crispy thin pizzas and a cold beer were much more appealing.
After lunch we wandered through the sun-baked streets to Saint-Omer Cathedral, whose cool interior offered welcome relief from the heat. The cathedral contains several fascinating treasures.
The first is its remarkable astronomical clock, dating from the 16th century. Although beautiful, apparently it was never especially accurate, something perhaps forgiven because of its extraordinary craftsmanship.
Even more unusual is the tomb of Saint Erkembode, a 7th-century bishop renowned for his travels and charitable works. His tomb is traditionally covered with children’s shoes, left by parents of disabled children, praying for healing and peace. Nearby, one of his leg bones is housed separately in an ornate reliquary (wooden and glass box), reflecting medieval traditions of preserving saints’ relics.
Back at the campsite it was time for some chores. “Do you fancy helping me empty the bins?” I asked Harrison. Half an hour later we somehow found ourselves ordering takeaway food and enjoying a drink at the campsite bar while we waited.
Spencer was less impressed, particularly because Harrison had wandered off wearing his shoes.
The Eperlecques Blockhouse
The heat continued relentlessly despite overnight storms, but we couldn’t leave without visiting the nearby Eperlecques Blockhouse.
Hidden deep within woodland, this colossal reinforced concrete bunker was another secret weapon site. Unlike La Coupole, which was designed to launch V2 rockets, the Blockhouse was originally intended to manufacture, store and launch both V1 flying bombs and later V2 rockets.
The bunker itself is almost impossible to comprehend. Covering around 5,000 square metres and constructed with walls several metres thick, it resembles something from a science fiction film rather than a real building. Standing beneath it, it’s difficult to believe humans actually built it.
The surrounding woodland still bears the scars of war. Bomb craters, sections of railway, transport wagons and defensive structures remain scattered among the trees.
Inside, exhibitions tell the stories not only of the military operation but also of the thousands of forced labourers who constructed the bunker under horrific conditions. Many were later deported to concentration camps, while others risked their lives sabotaging the work or passing intelligence to the Allies.
It is an immensely sobering place to visit and complements La Coupole perfectly by telling another side of the area’s wartime history.
One last evening
After another welcome cooling swim it was time for one final barbecue before packing everything away during the slightly cooler evening.
The next morning we would be setting off for Delft in the Netherlands with temperatures forecast to reach 34°C.
Despite the extraordinary heat, Château du Gandspette proved to be a wonderful place to start our holiday. Its peaceful setting, spacious pitches, excellent facilities and easy access from Calais make it an ideal stop for anyone crossing the Channel.
There’s lots more to do in this area so we’re fairly certain this won’t be our last visit.
À bientôt, Château du Gandspette!
Our ratings
Site: Peaceful with spacious pitches, great amenities and convenient for channel crossings.
Things to do nearby: Great for military history, old towns and coastal attractions.
How we started out
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